Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die Read online

  This book is for my girls, Cassidy, Annabel, and Deidre, and the many fun nights we have spent in our humongous L.L.Bean tent.

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  Fifty Places to Go Birding Before You Die:

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  Fifty Places to Dive Before You Die:

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  Fifty Places to Play Golf Before You Die:

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  Fifty More Places to Play Golf Before You Die:

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  Once in a Lifetime Trips:

  The World’s Fifty Most Extraordinary and Memorable Travel Experiences

  Contents

  Acknowledgments

  Foreword

  Introduction

  THE DESTINATIONS

  Alaska—Craig: Point Amargura Cabin

  RECOMMENDED BY ELLEN HANNAN

  Alaska—Healy: Denali National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY KRIS FISTER

  Alberta: Jasper National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY NANCY SMITH

  Arizona: Grand Canyon National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY KIRBY-LYNN SHEDLOWSKI

  Arkansas: Buffalo National River

  RECOMMENDED BY JILL ROHRBACH

  Australia—Jervis Bay: Booderee National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY JOHN HARVEY

  Australia—Northern Territory: Uluru–Kata Tjuta National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BAILLIE

  Australia—Tasmania: Cradle Mountain–Lake St. Clair National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY JEFF WOODWARD

  Belize: Belize Foundation for Research and Environmental Education

  RECOMMENDED BY JACOB MARLIN

  Botswana: Abu Camp

  RECOMMENDED BY GRANT WOODROW

  British Columbia: Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

  RECOMMENDED BY BARB BRITTAIN

  California—Baker: Mojave Road

  RECOMMENDED BY RICH HILL

  California—Big Sur: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

  RECOMMENDED BY PHIL BERGMAN

  California—El Portal: Yosemite National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY KARI COBB

  Chile: Torres del Paine National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY STEFAN URLAUB

  Croatia: The Dalmatian Coast

  RECOMMENDED BY ADRIANO PALMAN

  England: Lake District National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY PETE ROYALL

  Florida: Dry Tortugas National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY LINDA FRIAR

  France: The Gers

  RECOMMENDED BY ROD WHEAT

  Germany: Waldseilgarten Höllschlucht

  RECOMMENDED BY MARKUS DEPPRICH

  Idaho: Redfish Lake

  RECOMMENDED BY TERRY CLARK

  Italy: Lake Garda

  RECOMMENDED BY RUSSELL WHELDON

  Kentucky: Mammoth Cave National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY VICKIE CARSON

  Maine—Millinocket: Baxter State Park

  RECOMMENDED BY GREG BLANCHETTE

  Maine—Mt. Desert Island: Acadia National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY CHARLIE JACOBI

  Maryland/Virginia: Assateague Island National Seashore

  RECOMMENDED BY LIZ DAVIS

  Montana—Beaverhead County: Cliff and Wade Lakes

  RECOMMENDED BY MIKE HARRELSON

  Montana—Flathead County: Tobacco Valley

  RECOMMENDED BY TRACY McINTYRE

  Namibia: Namib Desert

  RECOMMENDED BY HEIN TRUTER

  New Mexico: Rio Chama

  RECOMMENDED BY STEPHEN BOHANNON

  New York: Adirondack Park

  RECOMMENDED BY KARIN TATE

  New Zealand—Nelson: Abel Tasman National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY HUGH AND PAM MYTTON

  New Zealand—Otago: Greater Queenstown

  RECOMMENDED BY DAVE MACLEOD

  Nova Scotia: Cape Breton Highlands National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY MARIÈVE THERRIAULT

  Ontario: Pukaskwa National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY ANNIQUE MAHEU

  Oregon—Fort Klamath: Crater Lake National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY BRIAN ETTLING

  Oregon—Malheur County: Owyhee Canyonlands

  RECOMMENDED BY KIRK RICHARDSON

  Oregon—Tillamook/Lincoln Counties: North Coast

  RECOMMENDED BY CHRIS EMERICK

  Sweden—Abisko: King’s Trail

  RECOMMENDED BY EILEEN HOWE

  Sweden—High Coast: Norrfällsviken

  RECOMMENDED BY EVA SVÄRD

  Switzerland: Arolla

  RECOMMENDED BY LAURENCE AND GEORGES REIF

  Texas: Big Bend National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY DAVID ELKOWITZ

  Thailand: Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary

  RECOMMENDED BY CHRIS CLIFFORD

  Utah: Bryce Canyon National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY CHRISTOPHER MARTENS

  Utah/Colorado: Dinosaur National Monument

  RECOMMENDED BY DAN JOHNSON

  Vermont: Ricker Pond State Park

  RECOMMENDED BY ROCHELLE SKINNER

  Washington—Ashford: Mount Rainier National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY BILL GIFFORD

  Washington—Forks: Olympic National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY RAINEY McKENNA

  Wyoming—Jackson: Grand Teton National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY JACKIE SKAGGS

  Wyoming—West Yellowstone, MT: Yellowstone National Park

  RECOMMENDED BY AL NASH

  Far removed from any human settlements, the Owyhee Canyonlands in southeastern Oregon make a fine spot for stargazing . . . and enjoying a campfire.

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  This book would not have been possible without the generous assistance of the outdoor enthusiasts who shared their time and experience to help bring these fifty great camping venues to life. To these men and women, I offer the most heartfelt thanks. I also wish to acknowledge the fine efforts of my agent, Stephanie Kip Rostan, my editors Samantha Weiner and Michael Clark, assistant editor Zachary Knoll, designer Anna Christian, and copyeditor David Blatty, who helped bring the book into being. Finally, I want to extend a special thanks to my wife, Deidre, and my daughters, Cassidy and Annabel, with whom I’ve enjoyed many fine camping adventures (even though they tend to bring a few more accoutrements than I might pack) . . . and to my parents, Tina and Andy Santella, who have not pit
ched a tent for at least sixty years but have always encouraged me to pursue my passions.

  FOREWORD

  A mentor once told me, “Measure the quality of each year by the number of nights you camp out.” Understand this sage campfire wisdom, and you will know there’s something transcendent about leaving life’s walls and ceilings behind to become immersed in nature; be it to defrag the mental hard drive by staring at the stars, or to calm oneself by the flow of a wild river, our senses simply become more in tune when we take a break from everyday civilization. In our topsy-turvy world, camping is a surefire way to regain your center.

  Whether on a juniper-scented red rock mesa, in a bison-speckled national park, by an alpine mirror lake or a wave-salted shoreline, superlative camp spots come in a variety of flavors. There are so many attributes that distinguish a serviceable campsite from a brilliant bivouac. And sometimes, if you’re willing to explore, you’ll find them in the least expected places.

  While some seek peace and tranquility, others look for a basecamp to adventure. Whether your camp implements of choice are a folding chair and good book, or perhaps a fishing rod, mountain bike, or canoe; whether a single, couple, or family reunion . . . there’s a prime camp spot out there, waiting just for you.

  This book is titled Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die, and let me remind you: None of us know when we’re heading off for the dirt nap. Therefore, regardless of your age or the vigor of your vital signs, I suggest you get busy. Use this book as a guide and/or a “must do” tick list. And, if you’re really on your game, you’ll soon have fifty more of your own self-vetted recommendations to suggest to Chris for the next edition of this book.

  So, how many nights will you camp this coming year?

  —MIKE HARRELSON, FREE RANGE JOURNALIST

  INTRODUCTION

  At no time in history have human beings been so far removed from the natural world. In America alone, nearly 81 percent of the population now lives in an urban area. It’s no wonder that many of us suffer from what writer Richard Louv termed “nature deficit disorder” in his 2005 book, Last Child in the Woods.

  Camping provides an opportunity to take on nature deficit disorder directly. To retreat from the trials of day-to-day life to a simpler existence. To refuel and reinvigorate amongst the wonders of nature, be it at the seashore, in the mountains, or in the desert.

  I wrote Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die for those who appreciate the chance to experience the great outdoors with family, with friends . . . or all by themselves.

  “What makes a destination a place you have to camp before you die?” you might ask. The chance to take in incredible scenery and immerse oneself in the natural world? To enjoy time away from fellow humans or time with wild creatures? An opportunity to pursue a favorite outdoor pastime with the flexibility (and economy) that a tent provides? Or perhaps enjoy the special camaraderie that occurs around a blazing fire, where the biggest concern is not overcooking your marshmallow? The answer would be yes to all of the above, and an abundance of other criteria. One thing I knew when I began this project: I was not the person to assemble this list. So I followed a recipe that served me well in my first eleven Fifty Places books—to seek the advice of some outdoor professionals. To write Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die, I interviewed a host of people closely connected with the camping world and asked them to share some of their favorite experiences. These experts range from National Park Service employees (like Jackie Skaggs, Charlie Jacobi, and Kari Cobb) to leaders in the outdoor-equipment industry (like Rich Hill, Christopher Martens, and Kirk Richardson). Some spoke of venues that are near and dear to their hearts, places where they’ve built their professional reputations; others spoke of places they’ve only visited once, but which made a profound impression. People appreciate camping for many different reasons, and this range of attractions is evidenced here. (To give a sense of the breadth of the interviewees’ backgrounds, a bio of each individual is included after each essay.)

  Camping means different things to different people. For some, it may mean an isolated, no-frills site where you have to bring in your own water, and you’re more likely to encounter a bighorn sheep than a blasting boombox; for others, it may mean a campground with full amenities, an ongoing ranger program, and a lodge nearby for those nights when you just don’t feel like cooking . . . and perhaps even the option of a cabin for those who don’t feel quite like tenting. Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die attempts to capture the spectrum of camping experiences. While the book collects fifty great venues, it by no means attempts to rank the places discussed or the quality of the experiences they afford. Such ranking is, of course, largely subjective.

  In the hope that a few readers might embark on their own camping adventures, I have provided brief “If You Go” information at the end of each chapter, including an overview of the amenities available and recommended activities for campers. The “If You Go” information is by no means a comprehensive list, but should give would-be travelers a starting point for planning their trip. (Most national and state parks require an entry fee, and licenses may be required for fishing and other activities. Please visit the websites for the region you’re planning to visit for the most current pricing/regulations.)

  One needn’t travel to the ends of the earth to find a rewarding camping experience. A quick overnight jaunt to a state or county park outside the city limits can often be enough to recharge your batteries for the week ahead. Yet a trip to a dream venue can create memories for a lifetime. It’s my hope that this little book will inspire you to embark on some new camping adventures of your own.

  Longitude 131°, in the shadow of Kata Tjuta (Ayers Rock), offers one of the world’s most unique glamping experiences.

  Mist lifts from an Adirondack lake on a crisp fall morning.

  The Destinations

  Campers at Point Amargura will want to keep their eyes and ears open for humpback whales, which will approach quite close to the cabin.

  Alaska—Craig

  POINT AMARGURA CABIN

  RECOMMENDED BY Ellen Hannan

  There are many fine ways to experience the wonderful wildlife and scenic grandeur of Southeast Alaska. More than a dozen cruise-ship lines offer tours of the Inside Passage and (in the case of smaller ships) its thousands of miles of nooks and crannies. A number of lodges host anglers and wildlife watchers, providing a mix of sport-fishing outings and flightseeing excursions. Still others choose to explore segments of the five-hundred-mile passage by kayak, paddling their way from fjord to fjord and camping along the way.

  One of the most economical—yet still adventurous—ways to experience the dramatic beauty of Southeast Alaska and the Tongass National Forest is to rent one of the forest cabins operated by the U.S. Forest Service.

  “I grew up in Anchorage and have lived on Prince of Wales Island for thirty years,” Ellen Hannan began. “During the summer, I work as a commercial fisherwoman in the waters around the region, but I also love to recreate here. The Forest Service cabin at Point Amargura is one of my favorite spots to make a base camp. It has great access to lots of areas to fish and explore. Having the cabin is great, given the kind of weather we have in Southeast. There used to be an old A-frame cabin on the site, but now it’s been upgraded. It’s larger and more weathertight. You can go out there in May or October—often the only time I have off in the warmer months because of our fishing schedule—throw up a tarp outside for a cooking area, and be very comfortable.”

  The Tongass National Forest occupies 16.8 million acres, stretching 500 miles from the Dixon Entrance at the border with British Columbia north to the town of Yakutat. Often referred to as the panhandle of Alaska, this region—larger than Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont combined—includes rugged mountains, ice fields, and glaciers, and more than 11,000 miles of coastline, spread over more than 1,000 islands. (When many think of Alaska, this is the terrain they’re envisioning.) Given the breadth of the landscape and the fact that there
are only 70,000 residents in Southeast Alaska—and very few roads—it’s not hard to find a bit of solitude in the wilderness. Such forays are facilitated by the presence of more than 180 cabins scattered around the region. A number of cabins and three-sided shelters were constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s, both to provide employment for out-of-work Alaskans and to create accessible, economical recreational outlets; the 1960s saw another uptick of cabin construction. The Southeast Alaska climate is not easy on structures; annual rainfall in sections of this temperate rain forest can exceed 120 inches! But the Forest Service is diligent about maintaining—and when necessary, rebuilding—the cabins for visitor use.

  Point Amargura Cabin rests on the southern tip of San Fernando Island, which is eight miles west of Craig, the largest settlement on nearby Prince of Wales Island. Ample by Forest Service cabin standards, the 255-square-foot cabin boasts a loft area and can sleep up to six visitors. It comes equipped with a wood stove for heating purposes, an axe and wedges for splitting firewood, and an outhouse a convenient distance away. If you’re lucky, previous visitors may have laid in some firewood for your use. “We have a group of friends who usually head out to Amargura around Memorial Day each year,” Ellen continued. “Part of the trip is fun, but we also do some work to neaten things up around the cabin. We clear away debris to improve access to the beach, and we cut a bunch of firewood. The unofficial rule is that you leave more firewood than you use.” While you may find wood at Point Amargura (or the other Forest Service cabin of your choice), you’ll have to bring everything else—drinking water, sleeping bags and pads, cooking stove, lantern, kitchen supplies, toilet paper, etc.

  Perhaps the greatest feature of the Point Amargura Cabin is its proximity to the water that supports so much life here. The Ursua Channel ebbs and floods outside the cabin, occasionally bringing seaborne visitors almost to your door. “There have been several occasions where friends and I have been sitting around the fire outside, and it’s very quiet,” Ellen recalled. “It could be in the evening or the morning. Suddenly we’ll hear the sound of a whale blowing water, very close, and soon there’s a humpback whale right at the point, by the kelp beds. They can really sneak up.” Reduced to a population of fewer than 1,500 whales by the mid-60s, the North Pacific population of humpbacks has rebounded to more than 20,000 individuals.